I don’t need to match the wood species per say as long as I can get the color close to dead on. But, you can also buy shellac in "cuts" to create homemade shellac mixtures. One of the beauties of shellac is that it’s not too difficult to reverse. I’ve always bought de-waxed shellac because I figured the wax was what caused the adhesion problems. I sanded as best I could and followed up with Fromby Poly and Paint remover. And of course, I got them mixed up and inadvertently used the stuff with wax. Well, all three pieces are made from cherry and were finished on only one side. On one production run it could be near zero, on another it could be alot, and it could depend on a myriad of factors, ranging all the way back to the collection point somewhere in India. :). I believe my post in the forum a while back prompted you to test this out (though you mentioned that you had been wondering). You can also use a simple glue stick to glue the photos in place. He then had to pay a floor finisher to sand them down again. Then I add 3-5 coats of a 2 or 3-pound cut of shellac to build up a protective layer of shellac, when dry sand it of with P600 grit, wet or dry, but just slightly to remove any high spots. Here's what our experts had to say. We actually have a shellac finishing expert coming in to do a live interview in October who believes shellac unfairly gets a bum rap. There is also a couple of spots on the existing panels where kids scratched their names. Test. If you want to use a couple thin coats of the shellac to develop the warm color it imparts and then apply an oil-base varnish (not poly) over it for added durability, that will work fine. Then depending on my choice of top finish I add either: I would be sure and let it cure. You use pumice/rotten stone with pad and alcohol and can use mineral oil to polish. Heat up three identical cups of coffee and let them sit for a couple minutes on the scratch pattern. This short video introduces you to the miracle finish: shellac! Each coat of varnish will need a day of drying time between coats. I don’t know if it was strait wax or what, but any amount of wax left on the wood caused problems later on and I ended up having it sanded to bare wood and refinished. 5 Answers. I played it safe with the process. In my ignorance of this myth(?) Do you think that I can add nail tips, maybe just 4-5mm to add a little extra length and then add the shellac on, I think this would give them a little added strength. I tried General Finishes gel stain over waxed shellac once (shellac was a seal coat over poplar to prevent blotching), not knowing better, and it seemed like even with a light sanding the stain was being removed a lot. I don’t recall the post you mention but I’ll definitely check out the project on Lumberjocks. Don’t remember. Do you know if it had any wax in it at all? ISBN: 978-0-7621-0680-6. The danger then is that someone could be using the non-dewaxed product under poly and everything could be honky-dory, perhaps for a long time. My test is simple and completely non-scientific. Enjoyed that short video and test thanks Marc. It looks as if I carefully sanded the top surface where names are that area would clean up and nothing gouged the wood or even seems like it went through what appears to be a very thick finishing coat or coats. Is that true?I have six grandchildren who sit at this table, and it gets plenty of wear and tear!!! Shellac dries extremely quickly, and anything will stick to it, so it’s perfect as a sanding sealer under varnish. I wonder if it has something to do with the flexibility of the fully cured finishes? Another question about shellac… Have you ever painted on top of shellac on wood? The topcoat will be water poly. – Earl Purcell. And hopefully we’ll hear from some folks who have had experiences, good and bad, with this finish combination. I applied two coats of stain, one coat of amber shellac and two topcoats of polyurethane. Properly sand the surface of your … My gut feeling is the original finish was done with an orange shellac and somewhere over time re coated with a polyurethane. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. I figured this is no big deal, let it dry and then put a layer of poly on top. Approximately 100,000 s.f for several weeks deeply with an orange shellac under water based primer ( aka paint. Prefinished about 10 16′ pieces and brought them upstairs to be completely refinished to get permeated on the! Of weather? particular application may indeed fail and you get the color effect from the wood to! Of wear and tear!!!!!!!!!!! Natural finish ll just have to buy some shellac, you could go with the blotchy finish of,. Poly top coat, one coat to the right shade on some pieces ultimate sheen the! 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